Alternator Adjuster

Started by Nigel, July 27 2016, 19:05

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Nigel

I've realised that I haven't posted details of the Alternator Adjuster I made from M8 track-rod ends and some 18mm stainless hex bar. Note that I used 18mm as the nuts are 17mm. This is the same adjuster at the two extremes (I use half-nuts both ends):


Complete installation details below.

Some of these bushings are just to convert from 1/2" to M12, some to make an M12 screw thread a bit tighter in a reamed 12mm hole (aluminium drink can, 0.1mm). There are two bushings for the green bracket, one with an offset centre:


Adjusters and spacer washers, plus an insert of the bracket:


The first spacer in situ (this one is mild steel, not stainless):


The final arrangement:




The adjustment range is quite small, but this is compensated for by having a selection of turnbuckle centres. Once I find the right one, I'll just keep that, and the next size up. The track-rod ends are clamped by the spacers onto the ball, so are free to rotate around it. However, the swivelling is restricted by ridge on the spacers. I gave up trying to make a rounded indentation on the stainless steel spacers, my lathe was not happy; I just did two steps at about 0.75mm and 1.5mm. The final depth was adjusted on a belt sander during fitting.
Nigel Mercier: Forum Administrator

Salty

Very neat Nigel, very neat indeed  :tbu

MarkTheBike

Superb, Nigel. Ever considered joining VP's design team?
ATB

Mark

Yngmar

Nice work. Considered making a few for sale?  ;D
formerly Songbird - Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001) -- now gone farming

tiger79

Very elegant solution.

Harry Brown

Quote from: Yngmar on July 28 2016, 12:40
Nice work. Considered making a few for sale?  ;D

+1

Nigel

Quote from: Yngmar on July 28 2016, 12:40Nice work. Considered making a few for sale?  ;D
The turnbuckle is relatively easy, it was my first lathe project. It's just a bit of (stainless) steel hex bar, ends faced and cut back (for spanner access to lock-nut), then drilled with M8 tapping drill (6.8mm). Tapped LH M8 one end and RH the other, done by hand.

However, the spacers are a real pig! I expect you could use two washers epoxied together, one drilled out to take the ball end. Or you could almost grind off the protruding sides of the ball as I attempted in my first prototype. The idea is to allow it to swivel around a tightened fitting screw, but not rotate around the axis of the hex bar.
Nigel Mercier: Forum Administrator

patprice

Wish I could get my stock standard Valeo to put out a few more amps and that might stretch the belt a bit and warrant such a good arrangement for adjustment.
Since owning this boat and some 300 engine hours I have never needed to tighten the belt.
Oh for a smart regulator. And solar is just great.

Yngmar

I have no lathe aboard, but maybe a regular turnbuckle with eyes on both ends might work?
formerly Songbird - Bavaria 40 Ocean (2001) -- now gone farming