Recent posts

#1
The photo of the assembled tang does not indicate any significant misalignment or side load on the swage which may cause  a premature failure. The stay terminal is not tight in the tang fitting which would allow for some misalignment.

If you are tightening the D1 when sailing to remove movement this may be overloading the D1. When sailing the leeward shroud and D's will all have some slop in them as the vessel flexes and the windward shrouds/D's stretch slightly under load, this is quite normal.

If the mast moves out of column (straight) when under load then the D's will need to be adjusted to bring the mast back to straight in the loaded condition.
#2
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Volvo Penta D1-30: Engine ...
Last post by SteveB62 - July 11 2026, 02:44
Thanks for sharing, this is very useful and interesting information. I am super impressed that you have a spare fuel pump on board!!
#3
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Cleaning the heat exchange...
Last post by Rapita - July 10 2026, 09:27
My md 2030 also had the same fracture due to vibration,I removed the unit and mounted it on a piece of grp sheet(the type that van and caravan sides are made from)Then earthed with a piece of wire.This has not failed in 10 years.
#4
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: 39 Cruiser Keel Depth
Last post by sunshine - July 09 2026, 10:28
The tonnage on my builders cert for a Bav30 is also a fantasy figure.
#5
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Volvo Penta D1-30: Engine losi...
Last post by gadisac - July 09 2026, 09:27
Hello everyone,

I'd like to share an issue I recently experienced on my 2006 Bavaria Cruiser 37 equipped with a Volvo Penta D1-30 and SD130 saildrive. The engine has approximately 2,600 operating hours, and I hope this information may help someone facing similar symptoms.

While motoring at a steady 1,500 RPM (I have an Autoprop propeller), the engine suddenly started losing RPM and eventually stalled. After restarting, it would no longer idle properly and was unable to maintain its normal idle speed of around 900 RPM in neutral.

Interestingly, no engine alarms or warning lights were triggered.

At the beginning of the winter lay-up, I had performed the annual service, including changing the engine oil, the oil filter, and the fuel filter. The fuel tank was also completely full, so contaminated fuel did not seem to be an obvious cause.

Once back in the marina, I started with the usual checks. I replaced both the Volvo fuel filter and the Racor pre-filter, and I inspected the diesel for microbial contamination. The fuel was clean, with no sign of algae or debris. Both filters were also surprisingly clean.

However, while replacing the engine fuel filter, I noticed that it was only about half full of diesel. This suggested that the fuel supply to the filter was insufficient, leading me to suspect the mechanical fuel lift pump.

Fortunately, I had a spare fuel pump on board, so I replaced it.

Afterwards, I disassembled the original pump out of curiosity and discovered something I had never noticed before: inside the pump, beneath the small cap on the top, there is a small serviceable mesh filter.

This internal filter was almost completely blocked by algae and microbial deposits.

After installing the spare pump, the engine immediately returned to normal operation. It now idles perfectly and runs smoothly throughout the RPM range.

Lesson learned: even if the primary fuel filter and the Racor filter are perfectly clean, don't forget that the mechanical fuel lift pump itself contains a small internal filter that can become clogged. It is easy to overlook because it is not part of the normal service routine, but it can seriously restrict the fuel supply.

From now on, I will inspect and clean this small filter during every annual service.

I hope this experience helps other Bavaria and Volvo Penta owners. Has anyone else come across the same issue?

#6
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: 39 Cruiser Keel Depth
Last post by jdy66 - July 09 2026, 08:13
Just to close the loop on this in case it is useful to others...

Bavaria was contacted and replied within 24h to say that the measurements on the builder certificate don't necessarily relate to the actual draft of the vessel.

They confirmed that although the builders certificate said 2.25 the actual keel depth was 1.85 as per other documents.
#7
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: 39 Cruiser Keel Depth
Last post by jdy66 - July 08 2026, 08:33
Quote from: sy_Anniina on July 08 2026, 08:03I find it hard to believe that a Bavaria 39 would have 2.25m draft. Our B40 2001 vintage has the deep lead keel option 2.1m and I believe the standard cast iron keel was around 1.9m

2.25 starts to sound like Match series draft

BR

Tommi
s/y Anniina

Yeah I thought that was odd... Then I found this (different boat) https://www.boat24.com/en/sailingboats/bavaria/bavaria-39-cruiser/detail/662090/ and in the advert in several places it goes on about the 2.25 keel so it doesn't seem like an auto fill typo etc... deep keel for the size. I previously thought the 39 cruisers only came with 1.85 or 2.05 options...

#8
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: 39 Cruiser Keel Depth
Last post by sy_Anniina - July 08 2026, 08:03
I find it hard to believe that a Bavaria 39 would have 2.25m draft. Our B40 2001 vintage has the deep lead keel option 2.1m and I believe the standard cast iron keel was around 1.9m

2.25 starts to sound like Match series draft

BR

Tommi
s/y Anniina
#9
Bavaria Yacht Help! / 39 Cruiser Keel Depth
Last post by jdy66 - July 08 2026, 07:32
I am looking at a Bav 39 cruiser which has a builder's certificate stating the keel depth to be 2.25m, but then all of the rest of the documents refer to 1.85m... including a tonnage survey.

I am wondering why the discrepancy... Did the builders cert just state the max draft possible?? I would have thought these figures wereexact for the specific boat.

I can see I might have to get under the boat to measure this using the method yngmar suggested in another post.

Any observations/thoughts most welcome.

Cheers

Jon
#10
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Cleaning the heat exchange...
Last post by Ailatan - July 06 2026, 11:20
Hi everyone,
I'm reopening my own post because I now want to flush the cooling system both the inner circuit and the raw water circuit.
Can anyone give me some advice on the products they've used and how they went about it?
Thanks on advance