This is the 2nd season I have had an aluminium anode on my 120 sail drive to see if it works better than a Zinc one.
I sail in salt, brackish, and fresh water so was looking for an anode that would work a compromise. Zinc anodes just get calcification very quickly to make them less effective. As I said in my first listing why should I be using zinc when it is not suitable over the above conditions.
You can see in the photos that there is still aluminium visable and its is working well, there are very small crustaceans, 3mm on it but they seem to be dead. The other covering is a soft crud, so the trial continues.
I purchased my anode from "Solent Anodes" put it in google.
Hope this helps
Odysseus
Bav 38
Hi Odysseus
I would be worried about aluminium as an anode and personally would stick to the manufacturers recommendation as electrolysis can very quickly destroy metals. In salt water you should use zinc anodes and in fresh water use magnesium.
Sophia
"aluminium" anodes will work instead of zinc and have the advantage of working in both fresh and salt water.
I am interested to know how an aluminium anode can protect an aluminium component.
I understand the galvanic relationship of metals, but how does an aluminium anode protect the aluminium alloy saildrive? Why doesn't the saildrive protect the anode?
Just curious, does anyone know why Odysseus would be having success?
Steven
Konan the Bavarian
Short answer is because the leg is marinised and the anode is no. Plus it is a aly mix for Marine use not pure. (If you can say pure) as Aly is a mix anyway.
This trial has taken place after a friend, a metallurgist, told me about Suzuki outboards changing to Aluminium someyears ago, and I thought I would give it a go as my zinc anodes were calcifing badly.
If it was not working it would still look like new, as it is being eaten away its working. See the photo.
Odysseus
Bav 38