As the subject says: What is your best improvement on the boat and why? I'm curious to know what you have done to the boat that makes your life easier and more enjoyable.
Let us now forget about the autopilot and plotter. Those are pretty much standard theese days. :)
2 things for me which have improved life on board for long periods:-
Fitting a proper shower in my heads. It just makes life better. Shower curtain over the door protects the only wood in there and an eco shower head.
Putting an hatch in under the bunk allowing easy access to a whole new world for storage.
Hope this helps
Odysseus Bag 38
For me it has to be a full cockpit canopy that I fitted in 2012, it provides so much extra space that can be used when the weather outside is not too great.
The second thing that has given me immense satisfaction are my recently replaced hatch and portlight acrylics and the knowledge that with a little ingenuity I was able to do the job for a fraction the price they might have cost, and now I can see out from inside instead of looking at badly crazed acrylics.
Quote from: Odysseus on July 15 2018, 09:54
Putting an hatch in under the bunk allowing easy access to a whole new world for storage.
I have looked at my bunk alot and thougt that it should have a hatch just like you have. Did you just cut out the hatch and put a pair of hinges on it?
Email me and I will send all photos.
There is a post someplace on the forum.
Odysseus
The 600W solar system, because it provides us with ample power and requires no effort apart from occasionally cleaning the panels. By the time we weake up, the batteries are already charging and on a sunny day they're full by noon (so we have power to spare for the watermaker we plan to install next). Bonus, the stern arch is handy for lashing lots of stuff onto :)
For smaller improvements, lubricating the Jabsco toilet pump plunger with a bit of silicon grease once every few weeks. Turns it from hard to pump and squeaky to easy and silent.
Putting decent LED lights in the engine compartment has made any work in there much easier.
Adding a gas strut to the chart table lid was worthwhile.
Jeez, I have a lot to do next winter :D
My B32 originally had a one piece washboard. Had it cut in two (60-40). Much easier to handle and store.
A lot of the above-mentioned changes.....
..... but getting rid of the 'sock and suicide lines' then fitting a top-down furler and mast-mounted whisker pole is high on my list. Downwind sailing has never been so easy or safe ;D
Removing the two bunk cabins in front of the mast and turning it into a master cabin with en-suite and a big hanging wardrobe.
Oh yes, and turning one of our heads into a wet hanging locker.
1. Changing the 2000w water heater element for a 500w heater element. This then allows me to heat the fresh water and charge my batteries from the 1 kva generator at the same time.
2. Put an in-line strainer in the fuel line before the Off/On switch to stop diesel bug clogging the switch and stopping the engine.
Craig
"Shirley Valentine"
Australia
1. Replacing the MD2020 with a D1-30 on my B34 makes a great difference. Hate using engine but when i want/need to use it in a big sea I now have the power to make good progress against the waves.
2. Fitted a cockpit enclosure around 2010 with full head room creating very usable extra space when moored in inclement weather or with back and sides up to give shake in very sunny weather.
3. Fitted a windlass and Rocna 3 years ago which has really improved our sailing ground/options.
Abandoning the poorly insulated and inefficient house fridge (now used as a beer pre cooler) for a sodding great Dometec Fridge Freezer in the spare aft cabin.....ice cold beer and we can make our own ice for the G&T's ...... got to get your priorities straight here boys :)
Jonathan
PS Also binning the pathetic lewmar cockpit table & making a new cockpit table complete with extension so four can easily sit round the table
B44. Adding insulation around the fridge. (Essential in Australia, beer MUST be cold) Gas struts on the saloon seat and hatch under f'wd bunk, getting rid of the plough and fitting a Rocna anchor, and Davits with solar and wind. And running a salt water galley pump at the galley sink.
Got no money left, but boat is great. 😀
Hi Chill,
I'm interested in how you added insulation around your fridge?
John
Quote from: Lazy Pelican on October 20 2018, 07:28
Hi Chill,
I'm interested in how you added insulation around your fridge?
John
Me too, as I cannot find a way in to do it.
Geoff
Quote from: GeoffV on October 20 2018, 10:08
Quote from: Lazy Pelican on October 20 2018, 07:28
Hi Chill,
I'm interested in how you added insulation around your fridge?
John
Me too, as I cannot find a way in to do it.
Geoff
You're not the only ones :)
I tried to find a way to remove the countertops, but the darn Bavaria builders made everything too hard to remove...
For Fridge isolation see topic Topic: b38 2003 fridge (Read 3358 times) . A lot of information with good result
I can't take credit, as the previous owner had a bow thruster installed on our B 36. Makes up for sail drive. Now, to locate anode for same....
What make of bow thruster is it?
Vetus, I have the boat out of the water. I need to contact them for an anode. ...
Quote from: WAArete on October 21 2018, 04:41
I can't take credit, as the previous owner had a bow thruster installed on our B 36. Makes up for sail drive. Now, to locate anode for same....
Yacht chandlers, eBay, plenty of anode suppliers online.
I know it sounds daft, but a little bit of foam stuck behind the bin to stop it banging on the cupboard door. Gives us a good nights sleep. :) :) :)
The most recent improvements is the folding cutting board for cleaning the fish, keeeping the mess out and the 25mm stainless tube handrails, could not stand the wire. The biggest improvement was epoxying around the companionway to get rid of the squeaks, absolutely no squeaks in this Bavaria.
really impressive handrails!
I think i need something too :)
how did you attach the tubes to the stanchions?
Did you get new stanchions or did you adapt the present ones?
Did you do the job yourself or with a metalworker ?
How did you get the tubes so perfectly bent ?
If possible post some photos from the details !
Thx
Robert
SY Jetzt!
Hi Robert
Thanks for the kind words. Yes I made it all up myself and this is how I Did it.
1. Put a string line from the pulpit to the push pit where the hand rail will go. Measure from the string line to the stanchions at 90 degrees to the to the string line. Do the same for port and starboard.also mark the string line at each point where the stanchions are at 90 degrees to the string line and measure.
2. Measure from where your hand rail will start and finish at either end of the string line.
3. Draw a straight line on a long flat surface and measure the distance for each stanchions then measure out the distance to the stanchion.
4. Use a very long straight edge to scribe an arch that disscects all the stanchions and the start and finish.
5. Tig weld all the lengths of tube together allow a bit extra. Make sure you purge the tube as you weld
6. I made a roller to roll the length in a curve see photo. Make sure you roll it pretty close to what you have marked on the floor.
7. The had part is to bend the tube so it hits the push pit and pulpit rail at 90 degrees.
8. I used the same stanchions. Cut the top of the stanchion through where the wire goes and file to fit the tube and it gives you a bit more meat to weld too. Try not to put too much heat in when welding as the stainless distorts easily.
9. Cable tie the tube to the stanchions and fit ends to push pit and pulpit with hinged tees.
10. Weld it up if it looks good.
11. Use the lever in the photo to take out distortion gently.
I shall take some more photos and post them. Hope this helps
Hello cabtrack,
you did a great work !
It seems to be a bigger job than expected and the pipe roller bender is an extra project too ;D
Due to the fact, that our boat is over 700 kilometers away from us, the project needs to wait until next spring.
Do you have any experience about the stability of the tube handrails and the whole construction, if hit when manouvering?
In our harbour basin two bigger charter companies operate a lot of boats and the da**** charter crews caused a lot of damages on our boat (3 bent stanchions, torn wires, and 4 loosened stanchion bases in only two seasons :'(.
i´m afraid of welding all parts together, and if hit anywhere, i have to replace the whole railing including stanchions, pulpit and pushpit (means doing the job again!).
Any suggestions?
Hi Robert
Yes probably a good idea to leave the wire on or find a quiet marina. We are at a quiet marina no traffic and no charter companies. Spend the money on more fenders. Col
i have taken some ideas from Odysseus. the ones i enjoy are
1. fitted a proper shower with a tmv so temperature is constant regardless of any other taps being opened.
2. fitted a timer on shower bilge pump. i didnt have enough hands to hold the shower, the soap and press the shower bilge pump
3. fitted led lights in engine room
4. fitted cockpit table (great for summer sundowners)
5 . this is my favourite one. made 2 openings under front bed , one fitted sliding basket drawers and the other one a waeco freezer.
this job now only needs to fit the trimwork to make my skew cuts look tidy
This weekend I'm trialing the first fit of a Raspberry Pi control centre (that's about the only way I can describe it) into my B36.
I'm using a 7" touch screen to provide environmental and boat data, create lighting systems and act as a data logger.
We'll see how it gets on ;D
I made a small video on the progress, which shows the super simple (but not gopping) interface - aimed at crew being able to use it rather than being super techie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO3Ik1AIfPA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO3Ik1AIfPA)
Quote from: Sitesurfer on December 10 2018, 16:40
This weekend I'm trialing the first fit of a Raspberry Pi control centre (that's about the only way I can describe it) into my B36.
I'm using a 7" touch screen to provide environmental and boat data, create lighting systems and act as a data logger.
We'll see how it gets on ;D
I made a small video on the progress, which shows the super simple (but not gopping) interface - aimed at crew being able to use it rather than being super techie.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO3Ik1AIfPA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jO3Ik1AIfPA)
That is exactly what I have been thinking of. I haven't tried raspberry, but I have worked with arduino a little bit.
Here is what I was planning to do:
- outside/inside temperature
- fridge temperature (and maby control)
- bilge water level alarm
- battery voltage meter
- motion sensors inside boat for alarming
- gps for anchoring and tracking
- internet access for monitoring and alarming remotely
This is all supposed to be installed in a way that I can remove everything easely if I would sell the boat at some point.
We really should start an own thread about these systems :)
I've sent notes on my fridge insulation to those asking. It's a bit long, so if anyone else is interested, let me know.
Chill
I would be interested in your fridge notes - please send me a copy. Cheers
Likewise, please send me also a copy.
BR
Tommi
s/y Anniina, B40 2001
Quote from: SV Chill on March 04 2019, 00:01
I've sent notes on my fridge insulation to those asking. It's a bit long, so if anyone else is interested, let me know.
Chill
The post size limit here is generous, and if you can't fit it in one post you can make another thread and link to it here :)
Solar Panels - 2x100W
Sterling A2B Charger
NASA Battery Monitor
Adult size toilet. Tecma 3G Ultra for fresh or sea water. (//)
Folding Lewmar wheel. Much easier to get past when swimming at anchor.
As a live-aboard owner of a 1998 Bavaria Ocean 38, there are TWO things that stand together equally as the best things we could do to make this great boat even better, both as a home and as a sailboat we actively use.
The first was a gift from the previous owner of fully enclosed Sunbrella cockpit canvas made by iversondesign.com. It essentially makes the cockpit a "sunroom" here in the Sailish Sea where the sun is dim and the air moist much of the year. There are 13 panels that stretch from the "windshield" to the traveler and the best part is that we can add and remove the zippered panels as the conditions dictate. This makes sailing in inclimite weather very enjoyable and the bimini makes for a great sunscreen on hot days like we found sailing yesterday.
The other was an upgrade to a Torrid Marine 10 gallon water heater with a high temperature thermostatic mixing valve. (Disclaimer-I am a part owner of Torrid Marine). This effectively doubled our hot water capacity so that all domestic activities including showers for two have enough hot water to get the job done. Since this upgrade, Torrid introduced the Explorer Series 18 that was designed specifically for the 38 Ocean. We look forward to a good excuse to upgrade again so that we can take advantage of the dual independent coolant heat exchanger coils and dual independent electrical heating elements. The hot coolant coolant will route to both our engine and our Espar hydronic heater while the electric elements will be powered by shore power and likely solar.
The upgrade list is long but these two made a great sailboat a great home as well.
Quote from: Noelio Abrunhosa on December 09 2018, 13:20
i have taken some ideas from Odysseus. the ones i enjoy are
1. fitted a proper shower with a tmv so temperature is constant regardless of any other taps being opened.
2. fitted a timer on shower bilge pump. i didnt have enough hands to hold the shower, the soap and press the shower bilge pump
3. fitted led lights in engine room
4. fitted cockpit table (great for summer sundowners)
5 . this is my favourite one. made 2 openings under front bed , one fitted sliding basket drawers and the other one a waeco freezer.
this job now only needs to fit the trimwork to make my skew cuts look tidy
Do you get problems with condensation coming off the Waeco?
I have a Waeco and I made a thermal jacket, I get a very small amount of condensation on top when I take jacket top off to open lid..
Had this for 4 years now and has been a great success as we buy in bulk from supermarkets.
It draws 3.5 amps when running, much less than the fridge and with the jacket runs a lot less.
Hope this helps
Odysseus
Bav 38
Quote from: SV Chill on March 04 2019, 00:01
I've sent notes on my fridge insulation to those asking. It's a bit long, so if anyone else is interested, let me know.
Chill
Yes please. I'd also like to see your fridge notes.
Many thanks,
Alastair
Quote from: Jeffatoms on July 21 2019, 16:59The first was a gift from the previous owner of fully enclosed Sunbrella cockpit canvas made by iversondesign.com.
I'd love to see a few photos of this for inspiration, as I'm not very happy with ours. Does it stay well clear of the mainsheet at all angles of sail? This seems to be the biggest issue on the centre cockpit boats.
Quote from: SV Chill on March 04 2019, 00:01
I've sent notes on my fridge insulation to those asking. It's a bit long, so if anyone else is interested, let me know.
Chill
Oooh yes please, I feel a winter job coming on.
Quote from: SV Chill on March 04 2019, 00:01
I've sent notes on my fridge insulation to those asking. It's a bit long, so if anyone else is interested, let me know.
Chill
Yes please, Chill. Constant thorn in my side. Which twit thought it was a good idea to run unjacketed warm air ducting under the fridge??? Idiots...
Yes please, Chill.
Send.
Quote from: Yngmar on July 22 2019, 13:46
Quote from: Jeffatoms on July 21 2019, 16:59The first was a gift from the previous owner of fully enclosed Sunbrella cockpit canvas made by iversondesign.com.
I'd love to see a few photos of this for inspiration, as I'm not very happy with ours. Does it stay well clear of the mainsheet at all angles of sail? This seems to be the biggest issue on the centre cockpit boats.
Yngmar, here are a couple showing the full enclosure just before the haulout survey during a rainy Seattle February. As mentioned previously, this is a standard design by Iverson and the panels come off as needed. Currently we are cruising with just the bimini sunshade up and all side curtains removed.
The traveler and main sheet are not impeded in any configuration. We recently circumnavigated the San Juan islands and moored between a 2001 B38Ocean and Tartan 3700(?) with a similar Iverson enclosure. The other B38O owner appreciated (envied) their two covers. The Tartan design was similar but it was a custom fit to the boat that had accommodations and modifications made to the bimini to allow for solar panel mounts and related wiring.
We liked it and contacted Iverson and they said, "we can modify your existing bimini to work with your planned solar upgrade when you are ready." What a bonus having a world recognized leader in sailboat enclosures ready willing and able to work with our changing needs.
Thanks Jeff!
Quote from: SV Chill on March 04 2019, 00:01
I've sent notes on my fridge insulation to those asking. It's a bit long, so if anyone else is interested, let me know.
Chill
I would like to have your notes too. Thank's a lot in advance!
Cheers,
Juha
B38, 2003
Quote from: SV Chill on March 04 2019, 00:01
I've sent notes on my fridge insulation to those asking. It's a bit long, so if anyone else is interested, let me know.
Chill
Yes Chill, I am very interested about insulation.
Angelo
Modified rudder top bearing plate.
Due to a banging noise from rudder on my Cruiser 40 2008 twin wheels. The upper rudder bearing aluminium plate slip sideways due to the elongate holes. The two stop screws are not efficient when movements came from rudder (when load was reversed on the rudder.), I changed these two Parker little screws with through 6 mm bolts and nuts. Also I add up an down two big aluminum custom washers 8 mm thickness, bolted whith six 6 mm bolts ad nut. All side movements are now impossible. I also changed the two bearings with new Jefa roller bearings and adjusted chains tension not too loose not too tight. Now sensibility and lightness windward are excellent.
Nice topic... As a new member, let me reactivate it:
- Thermostatic mixing valve for water heater. Avoids scalding. Also saves valuable hot water lost trying to adjust temperature.
- Sea water pump that feeds kitchen sink. Not the manual foot pump! A proper elecrical unit.
- 600 Watt solar panels
- Folding helm for the B39C, thanks to previous owner
- Daewoo wall-mounting washing machine (https://www.google.com/search?q=daewoo+washing+wall&tbm=isch)
- Bigger cockpit table from Tischlerei Kurt Behn KG (https://www.tischlereibehn.de/cgi-bin/serien_eng.pl?LinkFAQ=faq_test.htm&LinkBack=../english/Serienyachten_eng.php&LinkName=Bavaria-Programm&Profil=650BV0098%27650BV0099%27650BV0161%27500BV0047%27700BV15%27500BV04%27500BV05%27700BV17%27700BV18%27500BV02%27650BV0100%27600BV05%27350BV27%27350BV26%27350BV25)
- Remote controlled windlass
Now the forum is is back up and running💪👍. I would like to thank the previous moderator for the great work, and the new moderator (and everyone who is involved) for their hard work in getting this forum back up and running. Thank you !
Let's check if there has been any tinkering done on those Bavarias in the past few years. 😎 Here are some of the upgrades / modifications that I find enjoyable on our cruiser 36 (farr).
- A bow thruster that is proportional! It's a great feature to have when manoeuvring through narrow marinas with stiff side winds.
- Coppercoat, no more sanding & painting every year.
- A diesel-fired heater. Having a warm and dry cabin during the off season is really enjoyable.
- Latches on the tables prevent the table from folding down if someone touches it with their knee (and spills your beer ).
- A Starlink mini, mounted flat. No more fumbling around with terrible wifi access in marinas. If you need information, it's there. We managed to obtain download speeds between 100-200MB, which is very nice. (p.s. You can pause your subscription if it is not being used. Tip: Use an DC-DC converter to ensure that the dishy receives 30V.
Nice work there! Where did you mount the Starlink Mini? They have an offer on right now and I am very, very tempted to buy that little upgrade.
Have you been pleased with the Coppercoat? I presume it needs touching up every year around the keel where no matter how hard you work to encapsulate it, the iron will find a way to spot rust through?
Mine, is our full, cockpit enclosure from Wilkinson sails. Not only is it amazing when we are at anchor or in port, it can be used at sea with full 360 degree visibility. We were getting waves into the cockpit on the way back across the English Channel this year, and we had my youngest boy trying to recover (survive?) sea sickness in the cockpit. Put up the enclosure and, boom, all very safe feeling, snug, and no waves crashing in anymore.
IMG_2613.jpeg
It's a great place to sit at anchor even as it gets colder too, as it acts like a mini greenhouse
Hello Magical Armchair,
After two years, I did not have to touch up the coppercoat. But I did the job the right way once. After drying for a few months, the keel was sandblasted and immediately (<30 minutes) coated with a good quality 2K paint. The next day, I applied 2K fairing compound and a new seal around the keel-hull joint. Stainless M12 treated rods were used to install a keel anode on each side of the foot of the keel, and they were also sealed. After that the keel got anoter 4 coats of 2K coating. After that the hull, rudder and keel got another 2 coats of 2K coating. Then the coppercoat was applied (we had to do 7 passes wet in wet to get the recommended quantety on the hull, keel and rudder. To prevent having to sand between coats (the coats chemically bond this way), it is crucial to adhere to the drying times and temperatures without error. It was a big job, but I would say it's now bombproof :-)
I will attach an image of our Starlink mini mount.
We only have our B34 / 2000 / 3 cabin for only half a year and already made the following fixes / upgrades:
- Magnets on the doors to keep them open
- Curtains on the portlights aft
- Privacy film on the hatch board in the companionway
- Elastic storage net under all bunks for shoes
- LiFePo4 battery
- Round board on the sink for extra space
- Filling the hole in the refrigerator where all wires and lines came through.
After buying our Bavaria 41 Cruiser, I made many modifications:
1. Fit Vetus Bowpro 110 proportional bowthruster (what a great thruster!)
2. Install the original Nauti Sattler bimini (during hot days neighbours where jealous of the perfect shade and easiness of it
3. Install the step in of the searailing. (At the right position Bavaria already laminated steel plates to mount the stanchion feet)
4. As already mentioned before, the fixed shower in the aft head
What is next?
1. Replace the original saloontable base with a frame like the table in the cockpit, made from polished stainless.. Nice job for the winter..
We recently also added a sanitary expansion vessel behind the water pump. The job is small, but it's nice that the water pump no cycles correctly, so there's no more brrrt brrrt brrrt... 😎
Our choice was to use a 2L version, smaller versions do not make much sense in my opinion.
N.b. Make sure to set the correct pressure, most models are set to high for a boat.
JB
With reference to your post#57 on applying Coppercoat, I would be interested in hearing your reasons for attaching anodes to the cast iron keel and then sealing them. What do you hope to achieve by doing this?
Quote from: symphony2 on September 09 2025, 12:14JB
With reference to your post#57 on applying Coppercoat, I would be interested in hearing your reasons for attaching anodes to the cast iron keel and then sealing them. What do you hope to achieve by doing this?
I was interested in the same thing. We are planning on going to the Southampton Boatshow this year and I was going to ask the Coppercoat guys there as we are planning on doing this (tentatively!) this year... Hood seeing you Symphony2!! Hope you are well!
Now nearly 4 years since I sold my Bavaria - and still not finished my project Golden Hind, but it keeps me off the streets and reduces my potential inheritance tax liability, just like charitable gifts.
On Coppercoat, JB is right about preparation. I had mine done first straight from the factory, literally a week after it was finished building. However the contractor ground off the non compatible factory coating from the keel and after 3 years it started to fail. I patched it, but just like patching normal AF on iron more needed doing the next time. so I had it blasted and immediately coated with Hempel Hempadur, then a further 5 coats before applying Coppercoat. Fortunately I did it in a nice warm period just like this summer. It looked fine when I sold her 18 months later.
There does not seem to be any reason to fit anodes to cast iron keels as the corrosion is simple rust not Galvanic action. If you do fit them they tend to waste because there are impurities in the casting that can set up a galvanic circuit by introducing zinc into the mix. Without the zinc the impurities are usually benign!
Using stainless to attach them and then sealing over does seem odd but hopefully they will never get exposed to the seawater (electrolyte) and cause any problems. But no benefit either
Hello Magical armchair & Symphony2,
To my understanding, in an ideal world a keel should be completely coated. The difficulty I faced, and probably others too, was the fact that it is almost impossible to achieve this. The underside is a nightmare to do properly, and even if you manage to do it properly, there is always the risk of damaging the coating on the underside. Another problem that I had is that Bavaria seems to pour all kinds of metals into their keels (my keel even had grafite in it). Long story short, in my experience, salt water will creep into such a keel. There you have it: two metals and an electrolyte. My humble solution/test was to mount one zinc on each side of my keel, as I explained in the post. I have done quite some research on the topic and have spoken to multiple people who have mounted similar zincs. But to be honest, opinions differ on this matter, but I made the choice to mount them, and until now, after 2 years, I am satisfied. But maybe we have an expert in this matter on the forum.
Cheers JB
You are right about the impurities in the casting, but they are mostly benign and have no effect on the rust process. As I suggested you may well find the anodes waste - partly because you how have a mix of zinc iron and stainless and partly because you have now potentially set up a new galvanic circuit. This will not stop rust on the exposed base of the keel but it seems that rust does not creep under the Coppercoat if the epoxy has adhered properly. Rust forms when the adhesion of the epoxy to the iron fails as it did in my case because of poor preparation. However the failure was not along the line of the uncoated keel base but mostly in the concave areas of the bulb where the grinding away of the factory coating was difficult. Blasting of course should not have this problem. You may well over time find that the Coppercoat breaks down around the anode - or it may not.
Photos show after 4 years and repairs before blasting and recoated
The list is endless, but I'd say we have a tie, the Torrid Marine 18 gallon a/c and d/c water heater and independent engine and hydronic coolant-based heat capture (full disclosure we designed it as a concept water heater just for the B38 Ocean and now market it in our product line) and the new 4 season Espar diesel hydronic cabin heater.
We have focused on year- round, off dock luxury comfort. The fully enclosure cockpit canvas was already fitted when we purchased the boat.