Ive been busy improving Zephyrus, our B38 Ocean, this off season, especially with tge help of Santa's workshop. My latest project is adding a automatic flushing control panel to our Little Village watermaker. The whole thing lives under the Vee berth.
The panel ties into the windlass battery for power that is in the bow locker and tgen into the actual watermaker. It has a dedicated 50 amp breaker to the four dedicated breakers (boost pump, high pressure pump,rear tank transfer pump and the bonus, fresh water wash down pump which is also in the bow). Also included is a power indicator light, an analog voltage gauge for fwd battery, auto-flush controller, hour meter, both digital and analog flow meters and source-input/destination-output control levers.
I see four fixes now that it's partially assembled. Thoughts?
Ive been busy improving Zephyrus, our B38 Ocean, this off season, especially with tge help of Santa's workshop. My latest project is adding a automatic flushing control panel to our Little Village watermaker. The whole thing lives under the Vee berth.
The panel ties into the windlass battery for power that is in the bow locker and tgen into the actual watermaker. It has a dedicated 50 amp breaker to the four dedicated breakers (boost pump, high pressure pump,rear tank transfer pump and the bonus, fresh water wash down pump which is also in the bow). Also included is a power indicator light, an analog voltage gauge for fwd battery, auto-flush controller, hour meter, both digital and analog flow meters and source-input/destination-output control levers.
I see four fixes now that it's partially assembled. Thoughts?
Check the amps of your motor to see if the 50 amp breaker is suitable. My water maker has a 12 volt 80 amp motor.
Mine is set up the aft section of the boat and connected to the starter battery. Not ideal but installed by previous owner and I suspect cable size and length came in to consideration. I only run the water maker when the engine is running and also have a dedicated battery monitor which I switch to 'state of charge' display and stop when the battery gets to 80% charge.
I had a small manual timer for regular flushes but this was hard to get to or to check for leaks. I removed it and installed a manual flush at the control panel. Obviously, make sure it goes through a carbon filter to remove chlorides.
I only use the water maker on longer passages, about once per year. I pickle the membrane after each of these passages. I use Sodium Metabisulphite for the local home brew shop, which is quite cheap.
sean