anyone replaced one , what with and how ??.
our origonal fridge has never been great , got it regassed and changed fan over matrix , power consumption is an astronimical 2-3% of battery capacity every hour !!!
and not particularily cold , but gets there eventually .
batteries 2 x 140 ah , new may . smart gauge meter .
I replaced my fridge cooler with a Waeco, which is a lot better. The most important thing is to maximise the insulation where possible.
As per last post, insulate, 100mm celatex insl on fridge bottom, remove lid and fill with foil bubble rap, reduced my battery use by 40%, always keep the fridge full really helps. I have a huge block foil rapped polystyrene which is stuffed into fridge as I never use much more than half storage apart from the odd trip.
Ray
do you put insulation into bottom of fridge , guess so , as no other way :) ,, I always joke with my wife about opening fridge top , she thinks all the cold air (which sinks ) will pop out and hot air (which rises ) will sink into it , cant see how insulating lid will help :) but thats me , spose heat transfer through material ??????
I own a Bav 38-3 year 2003. The fridge in this boat has almost no isolation in the top including the cover lid. Therefor I glued 3 cm polystyrene from the inside to the top as well as to the cover. Futher I have filled all the voids around the box on the outside with PU foam. I could reach the sides and the front by removing the front panel. This added almost 3 cm extra insulation on these sides. The back side I have filled by drilling a matrix of holes from the inside of the box in the back wall. Via these holes I could put 1 or 2 cans of PU foam at the backside (40 - 60 liters acc. the info on the can). The holes I have closed later with white caps. I also increased the ventilation openings in the front panel to more than 250 cm2. Now after this work was finished, the compressor runs maybe 20% of the time at > 30 degr. environment temperature.
The poor insulation of the fridge box and insufficient ventilation for the cooling aggregate is the real problem, not the aggregate itself.
reg,
Ger
Quote from: Spirit of Mary on November 11 2014, 16:49
Futher I have filled all the voids around the box on the outside with PU foam. I could reach the sides and the front by removing the front panel. ...................I also increased the ventilation openings in the front panel to more than 250 cm2. Now after this work was finished, the compressor runs maybe 20% of the time at > 30 degr. environment temperature.
The poor insulation of the fridge box and insufficient ventilation for the cooling aggregate is the real problem, not the aggregate itself.
reg,
Ger
Thanks for your info. I did replace my compressor unit and evaporator (the white thingy inside the fridge). Before mounting the evaporator I glued an alu-plated foam sheet (usually put behind radiators in older houses) at the inside top and then fixed the evaporator to it, with a distance from the foam sheet. This effort keeps the top side from condensation and getting cold in the summer. I also replaced the bi-metal thermostat with an electronic version, as shown in another thread somewhere in here.
I was not able to remove the front panel which I need to, in order to fix the entire fridge box. It became a bit lose and tries to hang down on the right hand side. Would appreciate your input on how to remove that wooden panel.
Yes please I would like to know how to get the fridge wood off on my 38, I cannot see any fittings.
Odysseus
Bav 38
On my Bav 38-3 2003 (with the long kitchenette) the front panel is one piece (including bottom section where cooling aggregate is located and ventilation openings are). To reach this aggregate I have to take off the whole panel which is screwed with 4 wood screws. This was the situation when I bought the boat in 2008.
When this one piece panel is not screwed, I wonder how you get to the cooling machine.
To fix the box in place and get the additional foam around the box you need to remove the panel or drill the holes from the inside all around.
Reg,
Ger
Usually the lower part is separated and has a hinge at the bottom, so one can open that part to access the cooler unit. Still there is no screw to see for the front panel to remove. I saw two screw covers in the bath room towards the kitchen, but I don't know if the go into that front panel, or the total kitchen frame.
Have any pics?
The bottom of mine is a locker for the compressor, see photo. I did a lot of work in this area, see posts for fridge, and its much better, but more insulation can only improve it.
I am thinking of drilling holes for foam to spray in, anyone done that?
Odysseus
Bav 38
This is how it looks; and still where are the screws to remove the upper panel??
My new compressor unit has actually the "gas connectors" on the back so I had to mount it a bit angled, but had plenty of "gas pipe" to fit around the bend. I might have made a mistake by buying the smallest one, but even in the Adriatic Region I get my cold drinks, ice if needed for Caipirinha, and the food stays fresh.
What more do we want.
I still have about 8 month until retirement, so I must keep something to fiddel with when I have all time on earth.
This is how mine is looking Bav 38-3 Feb 2003. One piece panel.
Picture 1 panel removed and before isolation
Picture 2 isolation at the sides (reached from the front).
Picture 3 complete with front isolation.
Picture 4 one piece panel mounted with 4 screws(see also the additional ventilation openings).
Ger
It appears your cover has screws holding it in place is that true?
My one does not have any and may be glued in place.
Odysseus
Bav 38
You may well find that the joinery in 'spiked' in place, but either way I came to the conclusion that the only way to add insulation to the outside of the fridge box would be to destroy the joinery, so opted to add insulation inside instead. Probably not as effective but much improved on the ex factory situation.
Joh
Quote from: Odysseus on November 27 2014, 11:50
It appears your cover has screws holding it in place is that true?
My one does not have any and may be glued in place.
Odysseus
Bav 38
As I already said, 4 screws holding the one piece panel in place. I expect factory produced, otherwise the compressor unit cannot be reached. You have a locker to reach the compressor unit. Maybe a modification by the factory during the production year 2003?
Ger