I have 2003 bav 44 4 cabin version. i have a fridge problem in that it dont work ziltch nothing kaput. when i put a direct feed from the battery it works fine but as soon as i put the feed from the 424 bavaria electrical panel back on it stops again. have tested the feed into the danfoss control box attached to the compressor and reading is 9.7 volts. so its looks as though there could be a bad wire in the loom.have manually checked the outside of the loom and it looks fine no kinks cuts etc. so the obvious choice rather than cut the loom is to lay another feed from the fridge circuit breaker to the danfoss fridge control panel. batteries are fine. am i doing something wrong if do this and also and i have no logical sense why i think this but could the voltage cut off be in the thermostat or is it in the danfloss control panel. the reason i ask this because on previous posts another poster has suggested to erase the low voltage cut off detach the yellow wire in the in the thermostat
all other 12 volt components ie water pump shower pump lights are reading correctly
Low voltage under load is often caused by bad connections. Is there a push-in fuse in the fridge circuit, probably on the main panel? If so, might be worth taking it out, cleaning and replacing first.
nope only circuit breaker which i think is fine.when it comes to electrics i am a dummy and a baffled dummy at that
Don't mess with the control box, you need to find why the voltage reaching it is low. First leave it connected, then run another ground (negative) wire from the battery or shunt. If the voltage at the control box increases, there is a bad connection in the ground. If not, do the same with the positive.
From what you say, one of these will fix it, so you then need to find the bad connection.
I suggest soldering rather than simply crimping connections; it is amazing how effective an insulator copper oxide is when a crimp connection 'appears' fine.
If wiring is oxidised, it will be hard to solder so I immerse in a little jar of sulphuric acid for a minute or so, then thoroughly rinse off and dry... the bright copper is then easy to solder.
Quote from: Anthony on October 29 2014, 22:27
I suggest soldering rather than simply crimping connections; it is amazing how effective an insulator copper oxide is when a crimp connection 'appears' fine.
If wiring is oxidised, it will be hard to solder so I immerse in a little jar of sulphuric acid for a minute or so, then thoroughly rinse off and dry... the bright copper is then easy to solder.
Anthony,
On a Dutch boating forum it is very often said "no soldering of wiring on a boat". It seems to be not good against vibrations. I personally don't have experience, but maybe other specialists on this forum can reply to this.
Ger
Soldering is OK, but you have to limit the capillary attraction along the strands. Supporting the joint is also a good idea.
Now the plot thickens
since finding that my fridge aint working and checking the voltage is only reading 9.7 volt have left the boat for a five days and returned to find when i switch the fridge on at the control panel its working. am at a loss as i didnt do anything to it.it stopped working for over a month, boat not used ,tied up in a marina for that period
As I said, a bad connection somewhere.
I had a fridge problem this summer. Took ages to sort until I removed the spade terminal on the connections panel behind the instrument panel and found there was corrosion inside the terminal.
Look at wiring diagram, find which number connection it is and pull it off( will be thicker wire than most. Replace the connection, there was enough slack on my wire to cut of old and recrimination new. Fridge works fine now.