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#1
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Crack in propellor
Last post by Yngmar - Yesterday at 21:52Wow, that must've been some rope!
But yes, the sudden stopping with force acting on a single blade only is able to rupture the propeller like that. It looks like the crack happened some time ago though? There is quite a lot of pitting on the propeller, both old and new, which may have weakened the hub. I see the insulating washer under the cone is installed, but did you check it is working? There should be no electrical contact between propeller and cone or saildrive leg. You can check with a simple multimeter.
I can't quite tell from the photos, but it looks like the nicer lead-antimony keel rather than the cast iron. IIRC it was a 2% antimony alloy and while strong enough, it remains much softer than cast iron, so this makes some sense, but still, that's quite some chunks!
But yes, the sudden stopping with force acting on a single blade only is able to rupture the propeller like that. It looks like the crack happened some time ago though? There is quite a lot of pitting on the propeller, both old and new, which may have weakened the hub. I see the insulating washer under the cone is installed, but did you check it is working? There should be no electrical contact between propeller and cone or saildrive leg. You can check with a simple multimeter.
I can't quite tell from the photos, but it looks like the nicer lead-antimony keel rather than the cast iron. IIRC it was a 2% antimony alloy and while strong enough, it remains much softer than cast iron, so this makes some sense, but still, that's quite some chunks!
#2
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Jefa Rudder Bearing Housing Co...
Last post by Trivia - Yesterday at 20:57Hi everyone,
I own a 2013 Bavaria Cruiser 36 equipped with a Jefa steering system. I have found that the housing where the rudder bearing — model M13-230B 084 — is fitted is heavily corroded, as shown in the photos, and it appears that it needs to be replaced.
There is also a small abrasion on the rudder stock in the section that comes into contact with the bearing rollers.
I would appreciate any advice on how to proceed. Is this bearing housing supplied separately by Jefa? Is it bonded/glassed directly into the hull structure, or can it be removed more easily? What would be the recommended procedure for removing the damaged housing and installing a new one?
Regarding the rudder stock, I would also like to know what the recommended repair procedure would be for this kind of abrasion.
Any guidance, previous experience, photos, or technical information would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
I own a 2013 Bavaria Cruiser 36 equipped with a Jefa steering system. I have found that the housing where the rudder bearing — model M13-230B 084 — is fitted is heavily corroded, as shown in the photos, and it appears that it needs to be replaced.
There is also a small abrasion on the rudder stock in the section that comes into contact with the bearing rollers.
I would appreciate any advice on how to proceed. Is this bearing housing supplied separately by Jefa? Is it bonded/glassed directly into the hull structure, or can it be removed more easily? What would be the recommended procedure for removing the damaged housing and installing a new one?
Regarding the rudder stock, I would also like to know what the recommended repair procedure would be for this kind of abrasion.
Any guidance, previous experience, photos, or technical information would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
#3
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Crack in propellor
Last post by hollmanr - Yesterday at 14:31Hi, the haul out today brought me 2 "presents". A crack in the propeller (picture 3) and 3 gauge marks on the back of the keel (picture 1). The gauge marks are slighly bend to the side, which to me looks like the marks from when my bow line dropped overboard and wrapped itself around the propeller (there are also similar but smaller gauge on the front of the keel (picture 2). (I haven't ran aground since the last haul out when there weren't any of these gauge) I think I can rule out galvanic corrosion as the saildrive itself as well as the propeller don't show signs of pitting. But please correct me if I'm wrong. Any ideas why an aluminium propeller could crack like that ? Could it have happened when the line fouled the propeller ? Boat is a Bavaria 32 cruiser (2005). Thanks !
#4
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Heinsius - Yesterday at 13:58When you pulled the plastic pickup tube out of the grommet, what prevented it from falling into the tank? did it have a collar at the top, or did you simply hold onto it while replacing the grommet?
#5
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Heinsius - Yesterday at 13:51Thans very much for your answers. Odyseus, can I sent you a picture of my problem? Mij e mail is heinsius@gmail.com If you sent me a mail, I can repley with a picture. Thanks!
#6
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Engine change
Last post by marioxp - Yesterday at 10:25After the ignition problem, the service engineer determined that the engine had insufficient compression on 2 of the 3 cylinders. Since I had a general engine service 2 years ago, I was not looking to take the engine apart again.
The decision has been made and I am replacing the MD2030 and sail drive MS25 with a new D1-30 and a 130S.
We have agreed with the service engineer that we will unscrew the old engine and take it to shore and put the new engine on the boat. After that, the crane will take the Bavaria 36 out to dry land and the repairman will take the old sail drive out and install the new engine and new sail drive.
I am working out a strategy for pulling the old engine out and transferring the new engine from the dock to the boat. The service engineer's advice is that it is easier to take the engine out to the dock while the boat is in the sea than when it is high up on a stand in dry dock. Does anyone have experience with this process? There are two of us, what would you advise me.
Mario
The decision has been made and I am replacing the MD2030 and sail drive MS25 with a new D1-30 and a 130S.
We have agreed with the service engineer that we will unscrew the old engine and take it to shore and put the new engine on the boat. After that, the crane will take the Bavaria 36 out to dry land and the repairman will take the old sail drive out and install the new engine and new sail drive.
I am working out a strategy for pulling the old engine out and transferring the new engine from the dock to the boat. The service engineer's advice is that it is easier to take the engine out to the dock while the boat is in the sea than when it is high up on a stand in dry dock. Does anyone have experience with this process? There are two of us, what would you advise me.
Mario
#7
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Suunto compass bellows rep...
Last post by MarkTheBike - June 25 2026, 22:06Hiya Tommi
yep commiserations. I know exactly how you found out 'cos you very kindly wrote it up and that's why I'm being so careful. That shallow taper is a real pain. I did experiment with a thin rubber ring that fitted the small channel that runs around the tapered bit. My reasoning was that, as the hoseclip was tightened, it would give the cup something to 'bite' on. I think it would have been successful but the cup rubber was a bit too thick and pushed the ring out of the channel rather than just slipping over it. I abandoned it in favour of the soft silicone idea as it will be neater if it works.
yep commiserations. I know exactly how you found out 'cos you very kindly wrote it up and that's why I'm being so careful. That shallow taper is a real pain. I did experiment with a thin rubber ring that fitted the small channel that runs around the tapered bit. My reasoning was that, as the hoseclip was tightened, it would give the cup something to 'bite' on. I think it would have been successful but the cup rubber was a bit too thick and pushed the ring out of the channel rather than just slipping over it. I abandoned it in favour of the soft silicone idea as it will be neater if it works.
#8
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Odysseus - June 25 2026, 14:48Hi there....I did this work some years ago after replacing the grommets new from the oridginal supplier ...infact I sill have some....however after replacing them they still weeps out of the flange of grommet...so idid a tem fix by putting 4/6 turns of ptfe tape around the inside of the grommet that then sits on the rough cut hole in the tank, that was 10 years ago....still not leaking 
next....the plastic pipes just pull out of the grommets, then replace with new pipe or whatever...all thins can be done in 15 mins...BUT FUEL MUST BE BELOW GROMMET LEVEL.HOPE THIS HELPS I am sailing now so may be slow answering you messages.
next....the plastic pipes just pull out of the grommets, then replace with new pipe or whatever...all thins can be done in 15 mins...BUT FUEL MUST BE BELOW GROMMET LEVEL.HOPE THIS HELPS I am sailing now so may be slow answering you messages. #9
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Odysseus - June 24 2026, 19:04Just put 4 to 6 turns of ptfe around grommet job done
Odysseus
Odysseus
#10
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Happysailor - June 24 2026, 18:12Hi Hans, welcome to this forum! You can check the page of svb24.com if still original parts for your fuel tank are available.. this is the dedicated site for Bavaria parts. It is a known problem with GTL that rubber is shrinking and causing leakages. If no spares are available anymore, you may need to look into replacement/ modification.