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#21
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Odysseus - July 02 2026, 08:47Just pull out the plastic pipe first as my photos.
#22
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 42 - 2001. Selden ...
Last post by Viviane2000 - July 02 2026, 08:46@Yngmar @Mirror45184 I've included some pictures of the swages. I wonder what information there is to find in the photos of the failed wire / swage, I'd be happy to take more photos if that helps.
"The attachment looks normal and there is no additional toggle there by design. Never made any problems on ours. The angle on yours looks fine."
- I do think this is how it was designed to be. But a few people have mentioned that adding a toggle helps, that's why I'm asking, making sure the toggles are not somehow forgotten.
"Do your deck chainplates have sideways movement perhaps? That would cause cycling loading on the angled lowers and much less on the (closer to vertical) shrouds."
- I would be very much surprised if there is any movement in or at the chainplates. They are connected with a solid rod of SS to the hull where there is a lot of added structural support. It all looks very stiff and solid to me. The hull is laid in 2000, so still reasonable thick and solid as far as i know.
- Is there something I'm missing here?
"Tension is normally adjusted on the shrouds first and the lowers are then used to bright the mast into column (with backstay tension off). It may be that yours were too slack. Have a look at the "Hints and Advice" book on rig tensioning from Selden. If you look up the luff groove, it should be easy to see if its straight or not."
"- mast pumping due to the D1 being too loose"
- I did see the documents from Selden, they don't specify a tension on the D1's. As far as I can tell our mast is straight, whilst sailing I'm making sure the leeward stay has little to no movement
"- mast pumping due to insufficient shroud tension" -> After the new rigging was installed, a year later the shroud tension was measured at 18% of the breaking strength. I havent touched it since, it's still very stiff.
"The attachment looks normal and there is no additional toggle there by design. Never made any problems on ours. The angle on yours looks fine."
- I do think this is how it was designed to be. But a few people have mentioned that adding a toggle helps, that's why I'm asking, making sure the toggles are not somehow forgotten.
"Do your deck chainplates have sideways movement perhaps? That would cause cycling loading on the angled lowers and much less on the (closer to vertical) shrouds."
- I would be very much surprised if there is any movement in or at the chainplates. They are connected with a solid rod of SS to the hull where there is a lot of added structural support. It all looks very stiff and solid to me. The hull is laid in 2000, so still reasonable thick and solid as far as i know.
- Is there something I'm missing here?
"Tension is normally adjusted on the shrouds first and the lowers are then used to bright the mast into column (with backstay tension off). It may be that yours were too slack. Have a look at the "Hints and Advice" book on rig tensioning from Selden. If you look up the luff groove, it should be easy to see if its straight or not."
"- mast pumping due to the D1 being too loose"
- I did see the documents from Selden, they don't specify a tension on the D1's. As far as I can tell our mast is straight, whilst sailing I'm making sure the leeward stay has little to no movement
"- mast pumping due to insufficient shroud tension" -> After the new rigging was installed, a year later the shroud tension was measured at 18% of the breaking strength. I havent touched it since, it's still very stiff.
#23
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 42 - 2001. Selden ...
Last post by Mirror45184 - July 02 2026, 02:38Hi
Photo of the failed wire/swage is needed to properly identify the possible cause.
Potential causes are:
- mast pumping due to insufficient shroud tension
- mast pumping due to the D1 being too loose
- over swaging of the terminal
Need to see the failure to diagnose properly. As Yingmar has stated read up on the Selden "Hints and Advice" book. If you don't have a copy of it, down load it from their website.
Photo of the failed wire/swage is needed to properly identify the possible cause.
Potential causes are:
- mast pumping due to insufficient shroud tension
- mast pumping due to the D1 being too loose
- over swaging of the terminal
Need to see the failure to diagnose properly. As Yingmar has stated read up on the Selden "Hints and Advice" book. If you don't have a copy of it, down load it from their website.
#24
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 42 - 2001. Selden ...
Last post by Yngmar - July 01 2026, 19:14Do you have a photo of the failed swages?
The attachment looks normal and there is no additional toggle there by design. Never made any problems on ours. The angle on yours looks fine.
Do your deck chainplates have sideways movement perhaps? That would cause cycling loading on the angled lowers and much less on the (closer to vertical) shrouds.
Tension is normally adjusted on the shrouds first and the lowers are then used to bright the mast into column (with backstay tension off). It may be that yours were too slack. Have a look at the "Hints and Advice" book on rig tensioning from Selden. If you look up the luff groove, it should be easy to see if its straight or not.
The attachment looks normal and there is no additional toggle there by design. Never made any problems on ours. The angle on yours looks fine.
Do your deck chainplates have sideways movement perhaps? That would cause cycling loading on the angled lowers and much less on the (closer to vertical) shrouds.
Tension is normally adjusted on the shrouds first and the lowers are then used to bright the mast into column (with backstay tension off). It may be that yours were too slack. Have a look at the "Hints and Advice" book on rig tensioning from Selden. If you look up the luff groove, it should be easy to see if its straight or not.
#25
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Bavaria 42 - 2001. Selden mast...
Last post by Viviane2000 - July 01 2026, 06:27Hi all,
Our standing rigging has failed now twice in quick succession, in exactly the same place. That's too much to be a coincidence.
Three years ago we replaced all the standing rigging in Greece. It was supplied by Meltemi Rigging in Athens using Blue Wave components and 10mm 1×19 stainless wire. The boat is a Bavaria 42 with a Selden mast, so it's all very standard.
Two years ago, before our Atlantic crossing, the entire rig was inspected. Everything checked out fine and the rig tune was good.
A year later, we discovered that both D1 stays had broken strands at the top terminal. At that point the rigging was only about two years old. The Greek rigger made and shipped us a new pair of D1 stays.
Now, after crossing the Pacific, we've inspected the rig again and, once more, both D1 stays have broken strands at the upper terminal. These shrouds were replaced less than a year ago..
So in the space of three years we've had four D1 stays fail at exactly the same location (the upper end). That can't just be bad luck.
My gut feeling is that it has something to do with rig tension, although as far as I know the rig has always been correctly tuned. The original shrouds were checked for tension before our Atlantic crossing and everything was within spec.
When I installed the replacement D1s, I tensioned them by feel initially, then fine-tuned them during the first few sails. In about 15 knots of wind, I adjusted the leeward D1 until it no longer went noticeably slack, then tacked and repeated the process on the other side. So while sailing, the leeward D1s remain under light tension and don't move around much, although they are significantly less tensioned than the V1 stays. As far as I can tell the mast is straight, although that's always a bit difficult to judge accurately.
TL;DR: At this point we're replacing D1 stays more often than oil filters.
My plan is to fit Sta-Lok self-fit terminals so we can keep sailing, but I'd really like to identify the root cause before it happens again.
Someone suggested that I might be missing a toggle at the eye terminal <> mast tang. https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2016/5/10/rigging-toggles . How are the D1's attached on similar boats? Do you have a toggle or not? Is there any downside to adding a toggle?
Does anyone have other explanations I should look into?
Our standing rigging has failed now twice in quick succession, in exactly the same place. That's too much to be a coincidence.
Three years ago we replaced all the standing rigging in Greece. It was supplied by Meltemi Rigging in Athens using Blue Wave components and 10mm 1×19 stainless wire. The boat is a Bavaria 42 with a Selden mast, so it's all very standard.
Two years ago, before our Atlantic crossing, the entire rig was inspected. Everything checked out fine and the rig tune was good.
A year later, we discovered that both D1 stays had broken strands at the top terminal. At that point the rigging was only about two years old. The Greek rigger made and shipped us a new pair of D1 stays.
Now, after crossing the Pacific, we've inspected the rig again and, once more, both D1 stays have broken strands at the upper terminal. These shrouds were replaced less than a year ago..
So in the space of three years we've had four D1 stays fail at exactly the same location (the upper end). That can't just be bad luck.
My gut feeling is that it has something to do with rig tension, although as far as I know the rig has always been correctly tuned. The original shrouds were checked for tension before our Atlantic crossing and everything was within spec.
When I installed the replacement D1s, I tensioned them by feel initially, then fine-tuned them during the first few sails. In about 15 knots of wind, I adjusted the leeward D1 until it no longer went noticeably slack, then tacked and repeated the process on the other side. So while sailing, the leeward D1s remain under light tension and don't move around much, although they are significantly less tensioned than the V1 stays. As far as I can tell the mast is straight, although that's always a bit difficult to judge accurately.
TL;DR: At this point we're replacing D1 stays more often than oil filters.
My plan is to fit Sta-Lok self-fit terminals so we can keep sailing, but I'd really like to identify the root cause before it happens again.
Someone suggested that I might be missing a toggle at the eye terminal <> mast tang. https://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2016/5/10/rigging-toggles . How are the D1's attached on similar boats? Do you have a toggle or not? Is there any downside to adding a toggle?
Does anyone have other explanations I should look into?
#26
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Engine change
Last post by marioxp - June 30 2026, 11:57Thank you for your help! I did the job of removing the engine and later the saildrive.
This is how we did it.
First I unhooked everything from the engine, then I unscrewed the saildrive, I unscrewed the steps at the entrance to the sailboat.
We didn't use the boom, but we tied the engine to the mainsail halyard, and topping lift. and We lifted it with the help of a winch. One person made sure that the engine didn't hit the woodwork, since the mast was high it wasn't difficult to move it off the side of the sailboat. And we did all of that while the sailboat was tied to the side in the sea.
Here in Dalmatia, service engineers have some of their own mantras, and they are convinced that it is very dangerous to do this when the sailboat is on dry land on a stand. Personally, I don't think that's right and it wouldn't lead to the boat overturn from the stand.
This is how we did it.
First I unhooked everything from the engine, then I unscrewed the saildrive, I unscrewed the steps at the entrance to the sailboat.
We didn't use the boom, but we tied the engine to the mainsail halyard, and topping lift. and We lifted it with the help of a winch. One person made sure that the engine didn't hit the woodwork, since the mast was high it wasn't difficult to move it off the side of the sailboat. And we did all of that while the sailboat was tied to the side in the sea.
Here in Dalmatia, service engineers have some of their own mantras, and they are convinced that it is very dangerous to do this when the sailboat is on dry land on a stand. Personally, I don't think that's right and it wouldn't lead to the boat overturn from the stand.
#27
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Heinsius - June 30 2026, 08:27Hi Odysseus,
Thanks for your message.
At the moment I don't have your email address, so I can't send you the photos yet. Could you please send me a short (even empty) email to **[heinsius@gmail.com](mailto:heinsius@gmail.com)**? Then I will have your address and can reply with the pictures.
The main thing I want to check is this:
when I remove the grommet fitting, the plastic pickup tube that goes almost to the bottom of the tank — does it risk falling into the tank, or is it simply a loose tube that you hold in place while working on it?
Thanks again, and safe sailing.
Thanks for your message.
At the moment I don't have your email address, so I can't send you the photos yet. Could you please send me a short (even empty) email to **[heinsius@gmail.com](mailto:heinsius@gmail.com)**? Then I will have your address and can reply with the pictures.
The main thing I want to check is this:
when I remove the grommet fitting, the plastic pickup tube that goes almost to the bottom of the tank — does it risk falling into the tank, or is it simply a loose tube that you hold in place while working on it?
Thanks again, and safe sailing.
#28
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Engine change
Last post by Keweetoo - June 29 2026, 12:51You can use the boom as a support for a chain hoist to winch the engine up the companionway. Support the boom by several halyards and protect all woodwork with old carpet.
#29
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Engine change
Last post by SYJetzt - June 28 2026, 22:13I did a repair with a volvo mechanic in murter on the saildrive (SD150) with my D2-75. They separated the engine from the gearbox, when the boat was in the water. I see no reason why the engine couldn't also be removed while the boat is in the water. However, I cannot understand why the engine and the saildrive should be installed in two separate steps.
#30
Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: fual tank grommets
Last post by Odysseus - June 28 2026, 11:59Sent you photos by email.