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#21

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Breakdown and failure surv...

Last post by gadisac - October 07 2026, 08:55

Bavaria 37 Cruiser - 2006

(4) e i*
(5) a


*(4) i. Lack of Diesel (other) – Fuel tank failure

On my 2006 Cruiser 37, I had a failure of the diesel fuel tank caused by flexing of the tank under the weight of the fuel.

I inspected the tank and found that there was insufficient support underneath it, with areas where the foam filling/support was missing. This allowed the tank to flex under the weight of the diesel, eventually causing it to crack and leak.

I repaired the problem and added foam support underneath the tank to prevent further movement and flexing.

I have not seen this issue mentioned in the list so far, but I think it is worth including as a potential structural problem with the fuel tank, particularly on boats where the tank is not adequately supported underneath.

#22

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Volvo Penta D1-30: Engine ...

Last post by gadisac - October 07 2026, 08:40

I bought the boat in 2024. The previous owner had cruised with her in the Caribbean and, before leaving, he used this forum to identify and purchase the spare parts most commonly reported as prone to failure or wear.

His idea was to avoid finding himself on some remote island with a problem and no way of getting the necessary parts quickly.

I think it's a great idea, especially for anyone planning to do a lot of cruising in remote areas of the world where getting spare parts delivered by courier can be difficult or take a long time.

So, in a way, the spare fuel pump was one of the benefits I inherited from the previous owner!

Thanks for sharing, this is very useful and interesting information. I am super impressed that you have a spare fuel pump on board!!

#23

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Volvo Penta D1-30: Engine ...

Last post by gadisac - October 07 2026, 08:34

Thanks! Yes, the procedure was basically the same as when changing the fuel filter.

When I replaced the lift pump, I did not intentionally open anything on the high-pressure side, so I don't believe any air got into the injection pump or the injectors.

After fitting the replacement pump, I primed the low-pressure fuel system and bled it using the normal bleed point on the fuel system. I made sure I had a solid flow of diesel without air bubbles before starting the engine.

The engine started without any particular difficulty and, after a short period of running, settled down to a normal idle at around 900 RPM.

So in my case, I only had to deal with air on the low-pressure/fuel-supply side. I did not loosen any injector pipes or work on the high-pressure side.

If your 2007 Cruiser 37 is showing the same symptoms, I would definitely check the lift pump and, in particular, the small mesh filter inside the pump. Mine was almost completely blocked with microbial deposits, despite both the Racor and the engine fuel filter looking surprisingly clean.

Good luck with yours — I'd be very interested to hear what you find!

Good post, I have a similar problem with an 07 Cruiser 37, same motor. Was the procedure for purging air the same as a fuel filter change? Did you get any air in the injector pump or injectors when you replaced the fuel pump?

#24

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 49 – in-mast furli...

Last post by symphony2 - October 07 2026, 07:46

That is because the mast is being bent and therefore the mandrel that the sail rolls around is also bent. The mast should be straight.

#25

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 49 – in-mast furli...

Last post by elias - October 05 2026, 20:50

Sometimes I notice that having the back stay overtightened makes things difficult

#26

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 49 – in-mast furli...

Last post by MagicalArmchair - October 04 2026, 11:20

How did it go recovering the sail Jurre? We always find it hard getting a tidy furl when the wind picks up as the clue rises too high as the sail flogs.

The only way is to make sure you get a tidy furl is to release the outhaul in as small segments as possible, like a foot at a time, then wind that in, then let another foot out, the wind that in. Having the wind over to stb does make sense, however when the wind builds to anything over a four, you just need to be directly head to wind.

Having the mainsheet loose seems like a good plan, but again, if the end of the boom is allowed to rise (the Vang should control it, but it really doesn't when it's blowing old boots) you end up with bunching and jamming. So, let the main free a little, but keep it broadly on the centre line.

Finally, don't push on if you see an unsatisfactory furl - if you spot a fold getting sucked into the mast, even if it's blowing old boots and your sail is flogging like crazy, do not push on. Unfurl and start again, as much as you might curse this, and getting more sail out in a building wind feels counter intuitive, you will avoid a jam.

Finally, finally, reef early! If you think you might need to reef in a minute, reef now. Our boats are light and fast and sturdy, you will be surprised how fast you are still going.

The one thing I miss with in mast furling (and there are plenty of positives - I wouldn't go back I think) is the ability to reef down wind. Having to turn up into a big sea and building wind to reef is sub optimal, especially with four kids on board as it unsettles them and changes the motion and their equilibrium.

Good luck with it!!

#27

Modifications & Equipment / Bavaria Ocean 40 grp hard top ...

Last post by Markus - September 27 2026, 16:39

Some years ago I designed and built a GRP sprayhood (hard dodger) for my Bavaria Ocean 40 because I wanted:

• Better visibility in all conditions
• Improved protection from rain, spray and wind
• A more durable solution than canvas and plastic windows
• A comfortable place to keep watch during longer passages and with a clear view forward also during night

After several seasons of use, I can honestly say it has been one of the best upgrades I've made to the boat.

I still have the mould used for the prototype, although I have now sold the boat. Before producing additional units I would prefer to make a few small improvements to the mould, mainly to improve the rear handhold/edge surface quality as that was not part of the original mould but added on the fly when I realized it's a "must". If there is interest from other Bavaria Ocean 40 owners I could do this and produce a small batch, as it would be a bit of a shame to just trash the mould.

Compared with a new canvas sprayhood and frame, the cost would be at the same ball park while offering significantly longer service life and much better visibility and protection.
I've attached a few photos and can provide more if someone is interested.
Feel free to get in touch with commenting below or with PM.

P.S. This might also fit 38/42 Ocean, I suspect those have the same "windshield" design but I have no way of checking. If someone wants to send through dimensions of 38/42 Ocean frame I can check.

#28

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Volvo Penta D1-30: Engine ...

Last post by Sailabruzzo - September 22 2026, 17:07

Good post, I have a similar problem with an 07 Cruiser 37, same motor. Was the procedure for purging air the same as a fuel filter change? Did you get any air in the injector pump or injectors when you replaced the fuel pump?

#29

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 49 – in-mast furli...

Last post by SYJetzt - September 22 2026, 13:25

Also check that your mainsail halyard is properly tensioned. On my boat, an inexperienced crew once released the halyard and let it slacken by a few inches; this caused problems when furling in the sail.

#30

Bavaria Yacht Help! / Re: Bavaria 49 – in-mast furli...

Last post by symphony2 - September 17 2026, 23:28

The two main causes of jamming are incorrect furling and old/baggy sails. Furling mainsails need to be cut flat and preferably made from stable low stretch fabrics such as Vectran. The previous posts have given good advice on how to undo a jammed sail - patience is the key word.

As to servicing, the main points are the winch on the mast and the outhaul blocks. There is a lot of load on all blocks so check for wear. Best to replace with ball bearing blocks. The top swivel generally does not give trouble.
 
There is a lot of merit in having the mast down and getting a rigger to check everything for wear, replacing anything that is suspect. I have been fortunate in owning two Bavarias with in mast from new and one can really appreciate how easy it all is to use before things wear and sails stretch.